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| In my conversations with other photographers many of them share frustration with not being able to focus as consistently or accurately as they'd like. The biggest thing that has impacted my images in the realm of focus is switching from using the shutter button to control focus to using the back * button to control focus. |
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The idea is to separate the focus function from the shutter function. I love it because when I'm shooting a stationary portrait or some situation where the camera to subject distance is constant, I can lock in the focus (push the * button with the focal point on the spot I want in focus then let go of the button) and shoot away, even re-composing, and the focus will stay dead-on. This has also freed me up from constantly changing my focus points which I used to do because I wasn't confident in the shutter locking the focus. I now leave the center focus point selected and recompose after locking in the focus using the * button on the back of the camera.
In the situation of a moving subject, I also like the back button because it allows me to track the subject and still get consistent focus. For processionals and recessionals I put my center focus point on a point of high contrast -- generally on the man's torso at the point where his jacket meets his shirt: |
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The reason I put it there rather than on an eye is that with moving subjects it can be difficult to keep the focus point on a small area. If I focused on his eye, there's a good chance the focus box will overlap his head and the background and I could end up with plenty of beautiful shots with the background pristinely focused and my subject blurry. So it's better to pick a spot like a torso that has more surface area. Also, my camera is generally equidistant from the torso and the eye (they're on the same plane equidistant from the camera) so even if I'm shooting with a wide open aperture (the above shot was taken at f1.2) I will get the eye in focus. With my camera in Al Servo mode (always leave it there) I can just hold the * button down and keep shooting constantly and the focus will track the subject. It's a beautiful thing!
If you want to try back-button focusing here are the settings for the Canon 5D Mark II:
1. Under C.FN IV: Operation/Others set #1 to "3:AE lock/Metering + AF start" and #2 to "1:Enable"
2. Turn your AF setting to AI Servo. Leave it there from now on and never take it off.
For a Canon 5D:
1. Go to custom function 4 and set it to setting 1. (setting 0 is default)
2. Turn your AF setting to AI Servo. Leave it there from now on and never take it off.
For Nikon users (courtesy of Simply Knot Photography):
1. Go into your custom settings menu
2. Select A (autofocus)
3. Select A5 (AF Activation)
4. Choose AF-ON only
5. Use "AF-ON" button on the back of your camera to focus
When I first switched to back button focus it took me a little getting used to but I feel so much more confident in my focus being dead-on with this system. |
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I often get asked what my favorite lens is. Dixie and I both agree it's the Canon 50mm 1.2! I bought this lens back in April and since then I rarely take it off my camera. It has a price point of $1,600 and is worth every penny. Before I bought this lens, my favorite was the 50mm 1.4 which has a price point of $400.
The 50mm lenses are my favorite because they are the most versatile and I can achieve SUCH a shallow depth of field with them. I'm a big believer in changing lenses to work well in different settings so I change often, but I find that I go to my 50mm the most because it works well in many different scenarios. I use it during preparation time, for portraits -- individual, couple & group, during the ceremony and to get detail shots during the reception. So throughout the wedding day I'm consistently going back to this lens.
I'm also a big fan of shallow depth of field. So many photographers I talk to are scared to open up their lenses to their widest potential because they're worried their focus will be off and the shot will be blurry. But if you spend the money on good lenses, why not use them to their full potential? Don't be afraid to shoot wide open. Use the back button focus technique and you'll find that you can be very accurate with your focus. Also keep in mind that depth of field is determined not just by the aperture setting, but also by your focal length and camera to subject distance. So your depth of field is extended at the same aperture when you shorten your focal length or increase your camera to subject distance. When using the 50mm you can't change your focal length but you can keep in mind that the further away your subject is, the larger your depth of field is going to be. So don't be afraid to shoot wide open!! You have to be most careful with your focus selection when you are in close proximity to your subject.
I'm going to share some of my favorite images I've shot in the last few months with you. All of these photos were shot with my 50mm 1.2 wide open at 1.2.
In this first one check out the quality of the veil as it wraps around the bride's arm and how her right hand is out of focus. My focus point was locked on her eye and that's all I cared about. I just love the etherial quality of this image and shooting at 1.2 is what achieved it: |
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| I'm not afraid to shoot photos with multiple people in them at 1.2. And look at the window in the background. The look of it and the quality of the light coming in is something that I couldn't get with the 1.4 previously. |
| Detail shots are of course amazing with the 50 1.2: |
| And some portraits shot at 1.2: |
| Just for comparison, here's a shot I took with my 50mm 1.4 at 1.4 -- still amazingly beautiful. |
If you absolutely can't afford the 50 1.2, at least have the 1.4 in your arsenal. It's an amazing lens for the money. But If you can afford it, you'll be thrilled with the 1.2. The image quality is beyond amazing. And if you have awesome lenses with super-low apertures -- USE THEM AT SUPER-LOW APERTURES. Sorry, didn't mean to yell. Just don't be afraid, k?
Yep, that's what I think! :) |
Just a quick little tidbit today for photographers on back button focus. If you are still using the shutter button for focusing, check out this post to learn about the benefits of using the back * button for focusing. Having just purchased the Canon 5D Mark II I had to sit down and figure out the custom function settings to be able to back button focus. I thought I'd post them here in case anyone else is interested.
Under C.FN IV: Operation/Others set #1 to "3:AE lock/Metering + AF start" and #2 to "1:Enable" That should do it!
I'm off to put this thing to the test! |
About 5 months ago I changed my focusing technique to use the * button on the back of my camera to lock the focus rather than the shutter release. I saw this tip on Chris Humphrey's Blog and decided to make the switch. The idea is to separate the focus function from the shutter function. I love it because when I'm shooting a stationary portrait or some situation where the camera to subject distance is constant, I can lock in the focus and shoot away, even re-composing, and the focus will stay dead-on. This has also freed me up from constantly changing my focus points which I used to do because I wasn't confident in the shutter locking the focus. I now leave the center focus point selected and recompose after locking in the focus using the * button on the back of the camera.
If you want to try it (and have a Canon camera--not sure how Nikon's do this) follow these steps:
1. To do this, go to custom function 4 and set it to setting 1. (setting 0 is default)
2. Turn your AF setting to AI Servo. Leave it there from now on and never take it off.
It's taken me a little getting used to but I feel so much more confident in my focus being dead-on with this system.
To see Chris' original post that I read, click here. |
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